Hi, again.
First off, my most sincere apologies to the 94 people who stopped by Klunkers in the past 60 days. I’m sure you were sleepless awaiting my next post that has taken unforgivingly long to produce.
I’d like to say I’ve been too busy riding, but the truth is between slacking off at work and shitposting on Facebook and Threads (yes, I use Threads!) I’ve had my hands full.
(OK, checks notes… you’ve completed the fun, comic intro to set the tone and establish personality. Now what?)
If you’ve read any past posts, you’ll know I ride a Haro Klunkerson. And I do love it, still, now three months in. I ride it about once or twice a week TBH.
I also have a Surly Big Easy cargo bike, which I probably ride a bit more because I’m both lazy (it’s an e-bike) and not lazy (I leave the car behind for errands).
And I live in a hilly city. The Klunkerson’s 2.3:1 gear ratio is solid for cruising boardwalks, but it does seem a bit tall for what’s supposed to be a wheely-popping hooligan machine, right? Like, I have trouble wheeling it (either too much or too little).
I wish it was closer to a 2:1 so I could hammer the hills and lift the front tire with more control.
But would that be too spinny? What do you folks run? And why?
And how do you do it? I’ve seen some nutters run massive fronts and tiny rear sprockets, etc. But I’m more conventional.
I’m hoping for some community insight here—I got a lot of comments on by Klunkerson review, so I’m hoping maybe a few of the 100-or-so readers I get every couple of months can point me in the right direction.
Or am I being silly? Are these things like cars, the more you mess with them… the more of a pain in the ass they are?
Comment below. Much appreciated.
Oh, while I gotcha, check out these matching bikes I bought my kids for their birthday! I swear Haro is not paying me, but maybe they should be.
(Final note—bikes are cheap right now, amirite? It seems like 25 to 30% off is standard!)
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I recently purchased a Haro Compact Disc sprocket for my Klunkerson in…wait for it, 39T! I contemplated changing it to a 38 but I thought it would be to spinny. My sprocket was purchased to look more like my Master DMC. I have to keep up with my wife on her hybrid and I have the luxury of multiple bikes that are more wheelie-able when the need arises.
Ha! I think I’d like a 38T on mine.
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I like klunkers c’s comment , going with the 38. Be wise. Here are a few things to think about. How heavy is the Klunkerson ? How many hills and how steep are they on your normal ride . How windy is the norm in your area ? Tail winds are grate however at some point on the return trip can get ugly . On the windy trips when I go out I plan to ride into the wind or use buildings as much as I can as wind brakes hugging the side walks as much as possible to the get to the destination . That way you can choose to stop the ride if the going is not worth it , turn around and blow home . Where I live there is a ten mile bike path just above the beaches cliffs etc . Up here on the Cali. north coast and winds can get up to fifty. It’s not uncommon to see one pushing there ride back on foot because of a poor gearing choice . Now the last thing to consider when choosing your gearing and probably the most important . You got to ask your self, who are you . If you are a true Klunker rider at hart and love the single or two speed bike than you must of thought about the limited gearing to the elements as mentioned above there UNDER DOG . 🐶 If not my advise is to watch a John Wayne movie marathon to buck up. What kind of shape are you in and of corse don’t forget those dam knees over forty weekend warriors. When in doubt when riding a single speed , lower is better because it you and your bike should be able to do it all . Klunking is about the challenge . To teach one self that you can take on what you thought was impossible . That’s the rewards of Klunking. To rap the gearing choice up be wise. We didn’t go to school to listen to the teacher read the Turtle And The Hare for nuttin . Yep twelve years of school wasted. Anyone can do the twelve in fifteen minutes . Just watch that there cartoon on KQED aka now PBS about the same story.
I think Klunker C’S pick is the wise way to go the thirty eight over the thirty nine . Here’s why. Things to consider. First what kind of shape are you in. How are your knees. How many hills and percentage grades normally do you ride? What kind of winds are in the area one rides. How heavy is the bike ? What kind of tires are you pushing . I see all to often people pushing resistant type tread they do not need . That is like adding extra weight or riding up hill all day. Pick the right tread before you change your gearing because that may be all you need . Tires are huge for the performance of your bicycle and can feel like you changed the gearing when nothing has been done to it. The right tires are one of the first things to change if your not happy with the bikes performance. Make you and the bike do it all. As the saying go’s if your running a single or a two speed, Klunkin an’t easy . Choose wisely. Klunkin is all about the challenge. If your not up for it , watching a John Wayne movie marathon as that pore guy is always out numbered and wins always . It’s fun being the out cast, the under dog , and still kickin ass there you John Wayne wanna bee’s.
One thing I forgot to mention. These days I notice all to often and this also includes bike mechanics is that most of us with single speeds tighten the chain with too much tension. A lot of chain rings are not so true and have a cam effect which leads to tight spots when in rotation. That is not only harder to rotate but puts stress on rear wheel and crank bearings. Better to leave the chain a little loose as a loose chain has less friction, no binding leaving everything to spin freely and fast. A fast chain leaves you less tired, not to mention more fun.
Great advice Gordon! I think my chain is too tight…
Setting up / choosing the right handle bars for your Klunker . I thought this would be a good 😊 spot to apply this comment as gearing has to do with tweaking the bike to your style of riding. This may save some of you money as I have burn a lot trying to get my ride to handle and perform the way a real Klunker / bomber bike should perform. First off a real Klunker is a race bike to ride fast and to smoothly slide around the corners like a snake, the original down hill racer not a mtb. Most of your mountain bikes are for trail riding, slower technical trails tight stuff though not all of them. Some share a enhanced Klunker geometry but though these ones are for down hill racing they are fare form being able to hang it out and slide like a flat tracker/ oval track motorcycle around a corner as the original Klunker bike was set up to do. These new model off the shelf klunkers have lost that feeling all together. That’s why you see a lot of guys building bikes out of the old frames and a handle bar that shares some of the same characteristics of board track, oval track motorcycles that Klunker bikes have one thing in common with and that is brisk cornering. Part of the real Klunker bike handling comes from the lower crank position that mtb’s don’t have and now the handle bars. A real Klunker bike will use a handle bar with some pull back that gives you that slack neutral position that is relaxed that works all so well to slide your corners. Well Klunker fans what else are you not getting running a bmx or flat handle bar on your new production Klunker with those bmx bars ??? How about easier wheelies? Think about it. Yes that’s right easier wheelies. The pull back handle bars allow you to get your weight back on the rear wheel and not only that but gives you the leverage to loft the front wheel in the air. If that real Klunker racy, sinister bad ass feel is what your lookin for than this is what I came up with after bombing out buying handle bars that did not make the cut. So I came up with the Flanders #10 flat track bar with a DK bmx stem. You can buy them on eBay. The bars are made in the U.S. thick wall and not cheap. Hunt for the best price I paid 122.00 and can reach up to 178.00 if your not careful shopping. These bars dialed in one of my State klunker bikes in big time so I ordered a couple more and ditching the SE racing bars. The Flanders bars gave me 60% more out of my bike. The Flanders bars are thick walled and stiff and do not need a cross bar in case you are thinking about catching some air like the jumps taken in TT scrambles race on Harley XR750’s and Indian motorcycles that these bars are design to do. Or watch a TT race on American flat track on YouTube You will get the idea if your in doubt. The weight of the bars are not too bad. Hope this a help to dial in your ride. Good lookin bar, think they are powder coated.
Some times setting up your Klunker can get quite pricy. Think about it. You are the one ☝️ per center . How often do you see someone riding one? A Klunker is not an off the shelf bike. Even when one buys a bike that shares the tittle klunker one size fits all for some of us that are too short or too tall have to start hunting down the proper parts to make it rideable. The good ole junk yard parts are either collectibles or worn out. So now if that’s the case for you then the parts will be brand new. In then end your Klunker will be a prototype tailored to fit you and your style of riding. Your vision. A custom? Yes in the end many times your Klunker will be a Hot Rod to the bike world Doctor Frankenstein. Many times a set of peddles like the new Race Face peddles are half the price of a State Klunker bike at a 180.00$. VP peddles that come in many plated colors and run about 80.00& are rebuildable and are of good quality, recommended. Now we get to seats. Not long ago a Brooks seat ran about 110.00$ average now about 178.00 average. I’ll stop right there you get the point. Are you in or out Die Hard? As the saying goes Klunkin a’int easy. This is not a bad thing in the end your bike will be a prototype hands down. In closing the other day I was on the driveway finishing adjusting the proper angle of my new Flanders flat track bars when a something13/14 year old kid stopped and commented “ that’s a cool 😎 bike. He was riding a full suspension bike witch seams to be the norm for that age group these days. That has not been the first time that has happened when at a stop light many times I get the same shout out. That tells me that I must be doing something right to get the youth interested in the hobby/ sport as well as the old. Money well spent and a ton more fun 🤩 to ride than these moderne heavy suspension bikes that always need work. Plus if do your build right it should look like it’s goin 100 mph while parked with a little flash to give it the look. Maybe sneak in a two speed kick back coaster hub to make the others that un aware of such a thing wonder how they single speed old lookin obsolete deco wall hanger is hard to keep pace with. Keep em wondering.🤔